Relaxing 101

Most African-American women I know relax their hair. I have no problem with relaxing, but most women fail to realize that relaxing is strictly cosmetic and does not benefit the hair in any way. Relaxers weaken the state of our hair and leave it vulnerable to damage. Because the hair is left weakened, women who relax their hair must take extra precautions in order to keep the hair in a “normal” state after the hair is relaxed. Here are some tips to make sure you are being as safe as possible when relaxing:
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1) Pretreat the hair!
Chemicals in a relaxer imbalance the hair’s pH. This means before you relax, you should pre-treat the hair. Many stylists tell their clients “not to scratch” their scalps 24-48 hours before a relaxer. However, that is not all that should be done. A protein treatment followed by a deep conditioning treatment should be done 24-48 hours before relaxing. Protein will help strengthen the hair before a relaxer. Protein can be drying to the hair, so be sure to do a deep conditioner to restore moisture. A healthy balance between moisture and protein is the key to hair growth, so be careful not to over-do either, especially protein. Too much protein will cause the hair to become hard and snap, while too much moisture causes the hair to become mushy and weak. Aphogee has a great line of products for protein treatment.


Protect your already relaxed hair. If you are getting a touch-up, it is important to remember you are only relaxing your new-growth! This means you need to avoid re-relaxing hair that is not new-growth. Don’t be afraid to cover those precious ends with conditioner or some type of repellant to protect you hair just in case relaxer accidentally touches it.
2) Always base your scalp!
Basing the scalp is important! Many women skip this step believing it prevents the relaxer from “taking”. WRONG! It prevents burns on the scalp. Burns on the scalp = damaged pores. Damaged pores do not grow hair!
**Be generous around edges, ears, and nape.
3) Do not comb or stress hair!
Do not comb or stress the hair in order to get it straight! this irritates and weakens the hair. You may gently use your finger to smooth the hair if need be, but avoid further agitating the hair at all costs.
4) Do not leave in relaxer for too long!
Leaving the relaxer in longer in order to achieve a straighter look does not benefit the hair! Please only leave your relaxer in as needed; the directions on the packaging should say the MAXIMUM time. Use a time to keep track of time. Any tingling or burning sensation you feel is a sign of scalp irritation, which leads to damage.
5) Rinse thoroughly.
Be sure to rinse out ALL of the relaxer. Any left behind can equal great damage. Wash! Rinse! Repeat! Wash! Rinse! Repeat, and use a neutralizing shampoo! This step is very important, as the relaxer continues to work until the hair is neutralized. Failing to neutralize the hair can cause extensive long-term damage like thinning and permanent hair loss. The neutralizer works by helping restore the hair’s natural pH (varying from 4 to 6). Without it, the pH of the hair would remain out of balance, and the chemical reaction of the relaxer would continue to take place.
Remember to avoid being “rough” with the hair. Keep the hair as smooth and straight as possible while neutralizing and the result will be a more desired look. Using a neutralizer with a color indicator will ensure all the relaxer is rinsed out and the hair is restored to its normal pH.
6) Do a Post-relaxer treatment & deep condition.
Deep condition the hair with heat if possible. If you pretreated your hair with protein, be sure that your deep-conditioner is not too heavy with protein. This can lead to protein overload. Instead, Go for a deep-conditioner with a mild amount of protein. This step will restore moisture to the hair, and help to stabilize it.
**Remember, the amount of protein your hair can withstand depends on your hair. everyone’s is different. If your hair enjoys more protein, feel free to use a deep conditioner with lots of protein!
7) Avoid styling with heat!
After relaxing, neutralizing, and deep conditioning, the hair can still be very fragile. With that said it is important to try and avoid using direct heat styling for at least 7 days after relaxing. Oftentimes we blow dry the hair straight, and then use heat styling such as flat irons or hot combs. Instead of putting additional stress on the hair, I recommend doing a roller set under a hooded dryer. Just try to avoid direct heat styling at all costs!
8 ) Hold off on relaxing.
Don’t be so quick to claim you have “too much new growth” and that it is time to get a touch up. Widening the gap between each relaxer you receive will ultimately lead to thicker, fuller, and healthier hair! Challenge yourself to go longer between each relaxer!
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So, there you have it. 8 steps to safer relaxing. I only recommend self-relaxing for those who know what they are doing. For everyone else, I recommend professional care. I know it is hard for black women to find hair care professional (not stylist) that they can trust. Many of them over-book, rush, do not practice hair care and focus more on hair-styling, are overpriced, etc. If you see visit a stylist/hair care professional regularly, please make sure they follow the steps when relaxing your hair. Happy Relaxing!
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